Exmoor Fox, 4.2%

As subtle as the creature after which it is named, this is one of Exmoor Brewery’s most popular ales. Four malts are mixed in the mash tun and deliver a graceful and sleek malty mouthfeel. Hops are Goldings, producing a burst of delicate citrus and slight spice on the mid-palate, and Progress, which soothes the finish with a soft bitterness, while more malt comes forth to produce a delicious and lingering bittersweet character.

It would be a crime to swamp this beer with fiery flavours or big bruising dishes. Instead, let the self-possessed bittersweetness work its magic with fragrant Thai and Chinese dishes, such as Singaporean noodles and sweet and sour pork.